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Whether you’re hosting a huge Christmas dinner or plan to spend New Years Eve cuddled up inside this year, your home is likely to be the setting of at least some of your holiday plans. You might be thinking about how to maximize your hosting capabilities to please the humans entering your space, but you shouldn’t forget your pets this season, either. Their comfort and safety is important, but the holiday season can be rough for them. Here are a few seasonal pet safety tips beyond the basics you already know, like keeping them away from your burning candles.

Holiday decor can be dangerous to pets

The first thing to do is to make sure your tree is anchored down well so it doesn’t topple over if your cat does decide to climb it or your dog gets the nighttime zoomies and runs into it. If that seems like kind of a given, this part isn’t: Keep pets away from the water base keeping your tree fresh. It can contain fertilizer or chemicals that can be harmful if your pet drinks from it. Tree water can also breed bacteria, which can give your pet nausea or diarrhea. Neither your pet nor your guests will love that. Make sure there are alternative water sources for your pets nearby.

Tinsel, too, is a risk, especially to cats, who love batting it around and nibbling on it. Swallowing tinsel can lead to an obstructed digestive tract, vomiting, dehydration, or maybe even surgery. The same goes for glass ornaments. If your pet isn't a climber but still shows interest in your decor, put those items closer to the top of the tree.

Keep light wires well out of pets’ reach, as they can shock any animal that chews on them. If you don’t favor the plug-in kind, know that punctured batteries can burn their mouths and esophaguses. To protect animals from themselves and keep all your cords functional, during the holidays and year-round, try specialized cord deterrents. I've always used CritterCord ($16.99 for 10 feet) and found it to work great. Not only is it thick, to protect cords from teeth, but it is infused with a bitter taste that stops the animal from even continuing to try to bite through it.

Finally, if you have a fireplace and a dog, be wary of firestarter logs, says the Humane Society. Those can contain sawdust and paraffin, which could irritate doggie stomachs or even cause an intestinal blockage if eaten. Here’s a helpful guide for finding good, pet-safe firewood.

Holiday foods your pets should never eat

You probably already try to curb your dog’s begging at dinnertime, but the holiday season involves a lot of food, most of which you don’t get all year round, to say nothing of your hungry pooch. Still, resist the urge to throw your dog a literal bone from your holiday ham or turkey. It might seem harmless, but when chewed, bones can splinter and put your pet at risk of choking or suffering an intestinal injury.

Obviously, your dog should never, ever have chocolate. Here are a few other holiday foods you might not know your dog shouldn’t consume:

• Chives

• Anything containing citric acid

• Anything with a pit

• Raw eggs

• Fish

• Garlic

• Leaves and stems

• Nuts (safe in small quantities)

• Onions (including flakes and powder)

• Anything too salty

Holiday plants that are no good for animals

Nibbling on the Christmas tree can be a bad idea for a pet, as they may consume needles that can cause an intestinal obstruction. The needles can puncture the intestinal lining or bunch together in there and cause a blockage, neither of which is pleasant and both of which can be dangerous. You can sidestep this risk by getting a fake tree or not allowing your pet near your real one, especially if they're young and/or a known nibbler.

The ASPCA also points out that if your pet eats holly, they can become nauseous, vomit, or have diarrhea. Mistletoe can lead to gastrointestinal upset or even cardiovascular problems and lilies can cause kidney failure in cats if ingested. Finally, poinsettias are mildly toxic to pets, so if you're planning to have some around for the season, keep them out of reach.

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Once you feel comfortable caring for domestic pets like cats and dogs, taking the leap to farm animals usually starts with poultry. And for good reason: they’re relatively easy to keep in suburban areas, and with a little flexibility, they can thrive in urban areas, too.

The most obvious benefit to caring for poultry comes in the form of those tasty eggs, but poultry can also can become an integral part of your garden as both a way to recycle yard and kitchen waste (food for the poultry) and fertilizer (composted bird poop). While most people immediately think of chickens as their first choice, ducks (not to mention turkey, geese, quail, and pigeons) are also a great choice.

While you could, of course, have both, people generally start with one or the other. I spoke with Jordan Barnes, founder of the The Smart Coop, which sells coops with smart features for both chickens and ducks, about how to choose between the two. 

Startup costs (for both) may surprise you

You might think that chickens and ducks are cheap to own (with chicks costing $3 to $5 and ducklings at $5 to $10) but there are ongoing costs, especially when they're babies, that can rack up quickly.

For the first six weeks of their lives, you’ll need to shell out money for a brooder, which is like a mini coop with a more controlled temperature setup. I was sure a simple plastic tote or box would do the trick, but the birds grow fantastically fast, and within a week or two, my flock of four needed bigger digs. You can get fancy brooders for about $100, but you can also source a scrappier one for under $40. The brooder will also need bedding (most people use pine shavings) which will cost about $20 for approximately four cubic feet. For my four chickens, this amount only lasted a few weeks.

Your baby birds will also need a heat source. While many people use heat lamps, a more modern method is a heat plate that the birds can nest under, and that will cost another $30 or so. You will also need a device so the birds can access water ($20) and food ($10). Then, add on the actual food and grit, both of which ducklings and chicks need.

With both chickens and ducks, you’ll spend a lot of time trying to minimize the mess the birds make with their water, but it’s easier with chickens. Ducks actually need to be able to submerge their beaks in the water, which requires a different kind of water device that makes it easier to splash around. Otherwise, there isn’t much cost difference between having ducks or chickens at this stage; both require (sometimes surprisingly) expensive stuff for the first six weeks of their lives that they won't really need moving forward.

When it comes to food and housing, ducks cost more

Between six and eight weeks, your baby birds will be ready to move to their coop. Pinterest loves a fancy coop, but your birds won’t care how the coop looks, which can help you save some money. You can buy commercially made coops for anywhere from $150 to thousands of dollars, or build one yourself for a few hundred dollars. You might make some extra considerations for ducks, in that they like to have access to water; there are fanciful plans for duck coops with moats or ponds and sunpads, for example.

“Chickens need secure housing with roosting bars and nesting boxes," Barnes said, describing each animal's needs. "Ducks, being ground dwellers, need secure, ground-level housing and access to water for swimming and drinking.” 

In either case, you’ll still need to account for bedding and feed. “On average, a laying hen eats about a quarter pound of feed per day or 1.5 pounds of feed per week," Barnes said. Ducks at this age require twice as much food, about a half pound per day, and benefit from food that includes Niacin, which chickens don’t require. Niacin (vitamin B3) ensures ducks get the bone growth they need to support their body—but since this water soluble vitamin is eliminated daily and not stored in the body, it needs to be replenished.

In short, chickens may run $30 to $50 per month for food and bedding, but for ducks it will be closer to $70 to $100.

Ducks are a longer commitment, but lay larger eggs

Chickens generally live five to 10 years, but they lay consistently until they're about five years old. Domesticated ducks can live to their twenties. They, too, will lay eggs consistently for about five years, but all egg production will taper off by the time they turn nine. 

The eggs that chickens and ducks produce are markedly different in volume and substance, Barnes noted. “Chickens are prolific layers, with high-production breeds giving you around 250 to 300 eggs per year," he said. While some duck breeds, like khaki runners, can produce as many as 300 eggs a year, most duck breeds produce slightly less. Ducks, while laying fewer eggs, offer larger eggs. And while taste is subjective, duck eggs are often considered more luxurious, with a richer taste.

Both are social animals, but ducks are "social butterflies"

Though I was determined not to attach myself to my own small flock, it’s hard to ignore how charming backyard birds are. My chickens have distinct personalities that are easily observed, and though cautious and easily startled, they're are also curious and friendly. They also have a pecking order, Barnes pointed out. My small flock is being managed by a Machiavellian silkie named Cacciatore.

“Ducks are the social butterflies of the backyard," Barnes said. "They’re more sentient and form stronger bonds, especially if you hand-raise them. Ducks are known for their quirky, playful personalities and are often less skittish than chickens. They enjoy being in flocks and can be quite affectionate with their human caregivers.”

How your birds will interact with your yard

Backyard birds are a double-edged sword when it comes to the impact they'll have on your yard. On the one hand, they can provide fertilizer, bug control, and an ideal composting system for your kitchen scraps. On the other, both birds can be rough on landscaping. Chickens scratch up the ground to uncover edible bugs and create dirt baths, and ducks just consume whatever they can reach. However, these problems only exist if you free range your birds. 

The benefits to free ranging extends beyond the happiness of the birds themselves, though, so I think it's likely worth it. Free ranging your birds has an immense benefit to the birds, obviously, as they can forage and explore their surroundings, but it also means free pest control. Chickens eat bugs, and ducks love snails and slugs. You just have to balance that with the possible damage to the landscaping they can cause. You also have to remember that wherever birds go, they poop, which is a lot of cleanup.

The good news is that this abundance of poop is fantastic for your garden. A notable difference is that chicken poop needs to go through a composting period before it can be applied to your garden so it won't burn your plants, but duck poop does not. It’s considered “cold” compost and can be applied directly. Since your ducks are going to produce a lot of wet waste if you have a pool for them, a plan for how you’ll use that water in your garden is necessary. 

I’m willing to bet that my file at the local veterinarian’s office has a label on it declaring me a lunatic. On no fewer than four occasions, they’ve seen me fully sobbing. Once, I called in a nonverbal state; the receptionist actually guessed my issue and scheduled an appointment based on her yes-or-no questions and my emotion-wracked grunts. Another time, it wasn’t even for my pet; I came across a wounded pigeon and delivered the surely doomed bird to them, pleading for help. They gently told me I’d done “a good thing” and could go. I try not to think about what happened after I left. 

Life would be easier—and my reputation surely less marred—if there were a way to connect with vets instantly, assess what’s going on with an animal remotely, and appear (sobbing or not) at the physical clinic only when absolutely necessary. As it turns out, there is! If you use telehealth for connecting to a nurse with minor questions or getting prescriptions, you’ll be thrilled to learn it works almost the same way for your beloved pet.

What is pet telehealth all about?

Using pet telehealth has a bunch of benefits: It’s fast, easy, and affordable, plus you can access it outside of standard clinic hours. Joe Spector, founder and CEO of Dutch, points out that this is a solid option for people whose pets get super stressed at in-person vet visits; people in areas with a shortage of veterinarians; or anyone who has trouble getting to a vet’s office. Humans have serious human commitments that can get in the way of accessing speedy care, and pet telehealth could be your answer.

While another benefit of animal telemedicine is that it can give you access to specialists who may not otherwise be available in your area, it is primarily best for cats and dogs. Alas, it probably wouldn’t have done much for my hamster, although you can always log in and ask if any vets with experience around your specific pet are available to consult with you. In addition to mostly being a dogs-and-cats affair, it’s also best used for common issues: “Telehealth is ideal for pets’ everyday physical and behavioral health issues such as anxiety, allergies, diet, and flea and tick issues. [It's] intended for non-emergency use only. If your pet is in an urgent or life-threatening condition, it is recommended you seek in-person emergency veterinary care immediately,” says Spector. 

Of the apps available out there, some have special features (more on that later) but they all generally allow you to consult with a pro about standard healthcare topics using chat and video functions. 

The best telehealth apps for your pet

Here are some of the telehealth apps available for pets and what they can do for you and your pet.

Dutch

Dutch is unique in that its vets can prescribe medications, except for a few states in which that’s not allowed. Licensed vets will work with you to create a treatment plan that could include prescription or non-prescription medication, plus behavioral modification, diet, and other enrichment advice. The meds can even be delivered. You can enroll up to five pets for $11 per month.

Chewy Connect With a Vet

If all you want is an answer to a question one time, consider Chewy Connect With a Vet, a free chat service that will connect you to a veterinarian. (Video calls are free for Autoship customers and $20 for everyone else.) The service is available from 6 a.m. ET to 12 a.m. ET every day. Note that it only works for dogs and cats. 

Vetster

Vetster Plus is a great option for people (like me) who gravitate to “pocket pets” like bunnies and hamsters over dogs and cats. Vetster advertises its vets’ abilities to advise on hamsters, guinea pigs, hedgehogs, rabbits, mice, reptiles, and more. You can pay $74.97 every three months, $179.88 per year, or $55 for a single appointment, and chat with or video call a pro. 

Airvet

Airvet is a pet telehealth service that includes a $3,000 emergency fund, which you can access after 14 days of membership. Once per year, you can use that money on a qualifying emergency for your registered dog or cat at any vet clinic in the U.S. or Canada. If your vet is in the Airvet network, you can use the service to chat with them, but if they’re not, you can chat with another pro. The service costs $35 per month and gets you 24/7 access to calls and chats with vets. 

Dogs are like mail carriers: Neither rain nor snow nor sleet nor hail shall keep the animal from their appointed rounds. That is to say, your pooch still has to exercise and use the bathroom, even if it’s nasty outside. No matter how much you hate the snow, if you want a happy, healthy pet (and a poop-free home), you have to bundle up and take them out. Here’s how to walk your dog during the winter in a way that’s safe and effective for you both. 

Why walk a dog in winter?

Your dog gets a lot of benefits from walking outside, so try to keep that in mind when you’re suiting up for a chilly trot around the neighborhood. In a perfect climate, according to veterinarian Dr. Lindsay Butzer, walking your pet for 20 to 30 minutes a day is sufficient to keep them healthy and in shape. 

“Dogs, just like us, need mental stimulation and need to get out of the house,” she says. “If they are kept indoors every day or even let out for one minute and then brought back in, they may go stir-crazy or develop anxiety [due to] not releasing natural endorphins from exercising and seeing the world around them.” Even when it’s cold, it's important to take them out to give them some exercise, relax them, stimulate them, and cut down on destructive behaviors like barking and chewing. 

When is it too cold to walk a dog?

All that said, Butzer does caution that any temperature below 20 degrees Fahrenheit can pose issues for you and your pet, but some breeds with short hair and frail body types could even be adversely affected in 45-degree weather. A good rule to keep in mind is that if it’s too cold for you to be outside on a long walk, it’s too cold for them. 

If it’s between 30 and 40 degrees out there, Butzer suggests still taking them out to use the bathroom, but come back inside when they’re done. If it’s between 45 and 60 degrees, limit your walk to about 20 minutes. 

If you're worried it's too cold for your dog but the numbers on the thermometer aren't helping you, use your own senses: "If your eyeballs are cold and dry, so are your pet's," says Butzer. "Simply using common sense in these winter situations with your pets will help you a lot." In those cases, it might be better to stay inside until there's a warmer moment. More on that later.

Tips for walking a dog in the cold

If you can walk the dog, you should, even briefly, but there are ways to do that safely. Butzer recommends outdoor gear when the temperature drops, like a coat or even little boots.

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Products to consider:

• These Bark Brite all-weather booties ($30.99)

• The Healers Urban Walker boots ($29.99)

• The Vecomfy dog coat with fleece lining ($16.99 to $25.99)

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No matter how bundled up your dog is, another tip to keep in mind is that you should know exactly where you’re going when you set out. Bad weather doesn’t present an ideal environment for exploring unfamiliar places (even if your dog thinks it does). Stick to a route you know will be plowed and areas you can recognize, even in snow. 

What to do if you can’t take your dog on a walk in the cold

When it’s just too cold to go out, you still have options, even if you don’t have a backyard to unleash your animal in to do their business or run off some energy. Try having a grass or pee pad inside so your dog can feel comfortable relieving themselves. 

Beyond that, prioritize play time indoors. Butzer says you don’t need anything too fancy; fetch with a ball or tug with a larger toy will do fine. Playing consistently for even five to 10 minutes will release a lot of your dog’s energy. Even working on training commands is mentally stimulating and tiring for them, so if your space isn’t big enough to toss a ball around, try practicing commands (or teaching new commands) like sit, lay, roll over, wait, or whatever other cues the two of you use to communicate. Turn it into a game to keep them guessing and, of course, reward them with a little treat at the end.  

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