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I Own Three of These Incredible Retractable Hoses, and They're on Sale Until Prime Day Ends Tonight

12 July 2025 at 00:04

We may earn a commission from links on this page. Deal pricing and availability subject to change after time of publication.

Prime Day 2025 ends tonight, and Lifehacker is sharing the best sales based on product reviews, comparisons, and price-tracking tools before it's over. 


I'm a gardener and have a lot of garden gear, but even black thumbs with a yard have hoses. And those hoses are a pain. They snake across the ground, demanding to be rolled back up onto cheap plastic reels, or coiled neatly away. If they're not consistently put away, they become exposed to the sun, as well as people walking on them, driving over them, or tripping on them. My biggest issue was that I had to replace those hoses every year, and I'd frequently pull over plants and trellises when trying to stretch a hose to reach something. They're heavy, and obnoxious.

Giraffe Tools introduced retractable, wall-mounted hose reels a few years ago, and now I own three. They mount in minutes, using only a few screws, and the reel itself can be mounted by one person in just a moment—and they're on sale for a few more hours until Prime Day ends.

Once the reel is installed, you can easily pull it all over the yard at whatever height you installed it. I installed it at hip height, but in the future, i might install them even higher. Still, you avoid the issue of having to pull a hose around raised beds and most trellises, because the hose is above them. It's shockingly lightweight and pulls out easily. To retract the hose, you give it a light pull and then stand back, because it goes. In my experience, it rarely gets caught on anything, and when it does, I pull it out a few feet and it fixes itself.

The mount and exterior housing are sturdy and smart looking, in shades of gray that don't ever look dirty. They ship with an interchangeable spray nozzle, but any standard nozzle will fit just fine. You can purchase the hose in different lengths and strengths.

I don't need a power sprayer, I just use the jet setting on the hose, and it powers away any surface debris on my patio. I love being able to reach even the farthest corners of my yard with the hose, and none of my plants are at risk.

The last thing is this: Giraffe has a fantastic warranty. They'll replace the hose if there are any leaks or issues for two years. One of my three developed a tear (my fault; I caught it on a steel wheelbarrow) and no questions asked, a brand new replacement arrived a week later.

I have Giraffe reels in multiple lengths, both the 1/2 and 5/8, and I like them all. You just need to choose the right length for you—remember that you want to be able to reach the ends of your yard. Almost all of them are on sale for 20% off right now.


Looking for something else? Retailers like Walmart, Best Buy, and Home Depot have Prime Day competition sales that are especially useful if you don’t have Amazon Prime.

  • Walmart’s Prime Day competition sale begins at midnight on July 8 and will include deals up to 50% off. It’s an especially good option if you have Walmart+. 

  • Best Buy’s Prime Day competition sale, “Black Friday in July,” runs through Sunday, July 13 and has some of the best tech sales online. It’s an especially good option if you’re a My Best Buy “Plus” or “Total” member.

Our Best Editor-Vetted Prime Day Deals Right Now
Deals are selected by our commerce team

The Best Robot Vacuum I’ve Ever Tested Is 40% Off Until Prime Day Ends Tonight

11 July 2025 at 23:44

We may earn a commission from links on this page. Deal pricing and availability subject to change after time of publication.

Prime Day 2025 ends tonight, and Lifehacker is sharing the best sales based on product reviews, comparisons, and price-tracking tools before it's over. 


Robovacs, generally, work best in homes with no clutter: no cords, big open spaces, not a lot of things on the floor. The sweet spot for robot vacuums is dust or some basic dirt. But that's not what most people have in their homes: They have pets. They have children. They have small houses packed with stuff. Most people get a robot vacuum in the vain hope it'll simply take care of the floor, with no help needed. Most robots are going to get caught up on all that clutter, and you'll spend all your time unclogging them or rescuing them from where they're stuck—and you'd need to still keep a broom and a mop around, and supplement the robot's work. The 3i S10 Ultra is different.

The 3i's main schtick is that it never needs you to change the water, because it can do that for you. It boils the water when the robot returns to the dock, and the resulting distilled water is sanitized and ready to go. If the robot runs low on water, it makes it own via an on-board dehumidifier. I haven't changed the water once.

But as convenient as is, it would mean nothing if the robot couldn't clean. The 3i S10 was the first robot I ever tested that got large pieces of mulch and pet toy floof off the floor and into the vacuum without rattling around or clogging the vacuum. Then the tower evacuated the vacuum when it docked. The 3i has two large sweeps at the front of the robot that rotate in opposite directions to move debris towards the rollers. A singular roller is shockingly effective at getting that debris off the floor and towards the vacuum, where 13000Pa sucks it all away. That's not even a lot of suction for today's premium robots, but here, it works. It's quiet, too. Blissfully so.

Then, the mop comes out. It's a roller, which I'm growing to enjoy more than any other kind, and it did a good job, even on the first pass. The navigation of the robot was also effective—the robot navigated the cords and maze of feet and dog toys under my couches without any issue. It didn't get stuck on the pile of laundry; it avoided it. It understood what was a dog toy to be avoided, and what was dog toy floof, to be vacuumed into oblivion.

There are a few notes: First, the tower weighs a ton—about 50 pounds. You won't want to move it once it's in place. Also, the robot itself is tall at over four inches, and the mop doesn't wash with hot water, just regular distilled water. Also, 3i is a new company, and that might give you pause. For me, none of these issues were noticeable or changed the outcome, which was a clean floor.

There are lesser vacuums for sale this week that are still more expensive than the 3i S10. For instance, I'd recommend this over the Saros 10, 10R or Dreame X50, all of which I liked and are considered premium robot vacuums. The 3i S10 is usually a tear-inducing $1,899.99, but right now it's down to $1,199.99 ($1,139.99 if you use the additional coupon code S10USAVE5 at checkout). Yes, it is still expensive, but at this sale price, it might be worth the splurge.


Looking for something else? Retailers like Walmart, Best Buy, and Home Depot have Prime Day competition sales that are especially useful if you don’t have Amazon Prime.

  • Walmart’s Prime Day competition sale begins at midnight on July 8 and will include deals up to 50% off. It’s an especially good option if you have Walmart+. 

  • Best Buy’s Prime Day competition sale, “Black Friday in July,” runs through Sunday, July 13 and has some of the best tech sales online. It’s an especially good option if you’re a My Best Buy “Plus” or “Total” member.

Our Best Editor-Vetted Prime Day Deals Right Now
Deals are selected by our commerce team

Tonight Is Your Last Chance to Get the Ring Doorbell for 50% Off During Prime Day

11 July 2025 at 21:36

We may earn a commission from links on this page. Deal pricing and availability subject to change after time of publication.

Prime Day 2025 ends tonight, and Lifehacker is sharing the best sales based on product reviews, comparisons, and price-tracking tools before it's over. 

New to Prime Day? We have a primer on everything you need to know. Sales are accurate at the time of publication, but prices and inventory are always subject to change.


Before you get smart cameras or other smart tech, most people start with a smart doorbell. They're better than ever, with exceptional coverage of the area in front of your door, night vision, high quality video, and AI features. You can see who is at your door (and decide if you want to actually answer it), know when packages are delivered, and interact with those at the door when you’re not home using two-way video.

The brand everyone knows is "Ring" and there's a good reason. They make the best doorbells, an assessment I can make after testing 15-20 of them. Ring has built an entire ecosystem around their doorbells. Once you're subscribed (its not required, but the doorbell loses almost all functionality except live view without it), you get access to the Ring network. It's like a version of NextDoor, just for Ring users, and it has proven useful in finding lost dogs and alerting people to power outages. Prime Day ends tonight, so now is your last chance to get the Ring doorbell for 50% off at $49.99.

Subscriptions will run you $4.99 a month or $49.99 for the year, and with it, you're able to access 180 days of video history for your doorbell. You receive alerts and notifications, which are customizable, and you'll get video preview alerts, which you can click on to view the whole clip.

Obviously, video quality is important, and this model offers 1440 x 1440 resolution. You can hear everything at your front door, and also use the doorbell as a two way speaker, having whole conversations with no lag time. Ring is tied into every smart home system out there, including Google and Alexa.

This is the battery model of the Ring, and I recommend picking up a second battery, so you can swap them out. Even the process to recharge is easy: Pull the silver plate away, take the battery out, and recharge it using a micro-USB cord that comes included. If you have a spare, you don't have doorbell downtime while charging.


Looking for something else? Retailers like Walmart, Best Buy, and Home Depot have Prime Day competition sales that are especially useful if you don’t have Amazon Prime.

  • Walmart’s Prime Day competition sale begins at midnight on July 8 and will include deals up to 50% off. It’s an especially good option if you have Walmart+. 

  • Best Buy’s Prime Day competition sale, “Black Friday in July,” runs through Sunday, July 13 and has some of the best tech sales online. It’s an especially good option if you’re a My Best Buy “Plus” or “Total” member.

Our Best Editor-Vetted Prime Day Deals Right Now
Deals are selected by our commerce team

Tonight Is Your Last Chance to Get These Massive Hisense TVs for up to 55% Off Before Prime Day Ends

11 July 2025 at 16:20

We may earn a commission from links on this page. Deal pricing and availability subject to change after time of publication.

Prime Day 2025 ends tonight, and Lifehacker is sharing the best sales based on product reviews, comparisons, and price-tracking tools before it's over. 

New to Prime Day? We have a primer on everything you need to know. Sales are accurate at the time of publication, but prices and inventory are always subject to change.


Over the last 10 years, Hisense, a brand that doesn't yet have the name recognition of a Sony or a Panasonic, has been attracting a growing community of devotees impressed by its sets, which offer great value for the money. The largest televisions that Hisense makes are all deeply discounted during Prime Day, but the sale ends tonight.

For a long time, I was perfectly content with my 40-inch TV; given my small living room, I couldn’t see the point of scaling up. Then I tested out a 65-inch TV, and I was quickly proven wrong: A bigger TV really is worth it. And Hisense makes some great, and great big, TVs. Here are the models you can pick up at a substantial discount before Prime Day ends tonight.

Hisense U65QF Series 4K Mini-LED QLED Fire TV

The Fire U6 series, which supports the Alexa smart assistant, performs extremely well in overall picture performance and seems to outperform even the U7 in black uniformity. It features full-array local dimming to make darker images more distinguishable. Using a new AI chipset, the 4k upscaler ensures smoother motion.  

Hisense U75QF Series 4K Mini-LED QLED Google TV

The U7 improves over the U6 line when it comes to contrast and brightness. It also offers additional HDMI ports and, with a better refresh rate, is superior for gaming compared to the U6 line. 

Hisense U8QG Series 4K Mini-LED QLED Google TV

The U8 series offers an upgrade to the U7 series above. You'll experience incremental improvements to the picture quality, higher refresh rates for gaming experiences, and better brightness and darkness for HDR content. The U8 series minimizes reflections, too, making for a better viewing experience for daytime viewing.

Hisense CanvasTV

CanvasTV are the Hisense version of the Samsung Frame. When you're not watching it, you can use thisr television as a display for photos or pictures. The CanvasTV features a completely flat surface with a low profile frame, and you can switch the frame out (they're magnetic). With a high, variable refresh rate, this model is also ideal for gaming.


Looking for something else? Retailers like Walmart, Best Buy, and Home Depot have Prime Day competition sales that are especially useful if you don’t have Amazon Prime.

  • Walmart’s Prime Day competition sale begins at midnight on July 8 and will include deals up to 50% off. It’s an especially good option if you have Walmart+. 

  • Best Buy’s Prime Day competition sale, “Black Friday in July,” runs through Sunday, July 13 and has some of the best tech sales online. It’s an especially good option if you’re a My Best Buy “Plus” or “Total” member.

Our Best Editor-Vetted Prime Day Deals Right Now
Deals are selected by our commerce team

Your Anker Powerbank May Have Just Been Recalled

2 July 2025 at 20:00

Anker has issued two voluntary recalls of its popular power banks, both for reasons related to the lithium ion batteries inside the units. The first recall, earlier this month, was for PowerCore 10000 units sold between 2016 and 2022, over concerns of a potential fire risk. The second recall, issued this week for five additional units, including MagGo and Zolo power banks, relates to possible battery malfunctions that were detected during routine quality assurance testing. If you've got an Anker power bank, you'll definitely want to check to ensure it isn't one of the recalled units.

Which Anker power bank models are involved in the recall?

While the following models are affected, not every unit of these models are part of the recall. The recall of the MagGo and Zolo banks, for instance, only involved one battery supplier. Here's the list of the models potentially affected by the recalls.

  • Anker PowerCore 10000 power bank (Model: A1263)

  • Anker Power Bank (Model A1257 and Model A1647)

  • Anker MagGo Power Bank (Model A1652)

  • Anker Zolo Power Bank (Model A1681 and Model A1689)

How to see if your power bank is part of the Anker recall

To see if your specific unit is included in the recall, locate the model number of your Anker powerbank, which is usually located on the bottom of the unit. If your unit is one of the models above, visit the recall page on the Anker website. The page will direct you to the correct recall form, where you'll need to input the serial number on each unit, paying particular attention to characters that look like, like the letter "O" and the number "0" (good luck with that). As soon as you hit submit, you'll find out immediately if your unit is affected.

If your unit is part of the recall

If you find that your unit is affected, you should stop using it. Anker has instructions on how to safely dispose of a power unit—don't throw it out. Due to the lithium ion battery, you'll need to use a Household Hazardous Waste collection drop point. Your city probably has at least one facility that handles this type of waste. Regardless, you should not dispose of the unit until Anker confirms your unit is affected.

What compensation is Anker offering

In the United States, Anker is letting consumers choose whether they prefer a replacement unit or a gift card. Fair warning, the gift card is only usable on the Anker website.

These Reolink Smart Security Cameras Are All on Sale Ahead of Prime Day

2 July 2025 at 19:55

We may earn a commission from links on this page. Deal pricing and availability subject to change after time of publication.

I replace the security cameras around my home with alarming frequency in order to test and write about new models (a fact I don't share with neighbors, because I find their suspicion amusing). As such, I am often asked by friends what brand I recommend, and Reolink is one of the brands that gets my stamp of approval. Right now, several of Reolink's cameras are on sale, making it a great time to snag one if you've been on the lookout.

Increasingly, the ability to skip another monthly fee is a major factor in my security camera recommendations, and that's one of the reasons I like Reolink. Its cameras offer a number of backup hubs, so if you prefer to skip a subscription, you certainly can. Reolink cameras also offer POE (power over Ethernet) options, as well as cameras with static IPs, both of which can significantly increase the security of your cameras. (PoE ensures consist power and internet; static IPs make it easier to secure the connection to your camera, thus making it harder to hack.)

I always advise going with a PTZ camera

Point/tilt/zoom cameras (PTZ) allow you to use your phone as a remote control for your camera, so you gain a much larger field of view over fixed focal point cameras. The Argus PT is a fantastic example, with a camera that can rotate 360 degrees, offers 8MP color night vision, and auto tracking to follow your pets or strangers around the yard. Use the coupon on the product page for $28 off the regular price of $139.99.

If you're really suspicious and need to track more than one pet or person at the same time, Reolink has a dual tracking model. The on page coupon will take $28 off the $169.99 price.

Get a video doorbell that works with your smart cameras

There are some brands of video doorbells so good that I've been known to keep a whole separate app and subscription just for the doorbell. This year, I decided that was absurd and I've been incredibly happy since—now I use one system for the whole home, including the doorbell. This allows the system to track people or pets from one camera to another, and I can easily access all the feeds in one place. If you're in the Reolink ecosystem, this 2K wired doorbell comes with its own smart chime. An on-page coupon will knock 20% off its regular price of $109.99.

When you need a lot of storage and incredible detail

The Reolink Duo, another camera included in the sale, isn't PTZ, but it's still a good option. The camera's focus remains fixed, so you never miss a second of what happens in the field of vision, which is still pretty wide, at 180 degrees. This camera also doubles the detail of the Argus models, with a full 16mp UHD. Another notable perk: up to 512GB of storage on board, so you don't have to delete clips every few days. Normally $189.99, a $45 off coupon can be stacked with an additional 5% off coupon, both on the page.

All the Gardening Tasks You Should Do in July

2 July 2025 at 13:30

July is the month you're supposed to get a break from your garden. With most of the planting already finished, you should be sitting back, enjoying a fresh berry margarita in the garden as your plants fulfill their destiny all around you.

But the cycle of summer gardening never truly stops, which means you also need to fit in some weeding and harvesting in between heat domes. Here's what you should focus on this month.

The daily survey

Weeds and more weeds
No, *you* have a weed problem. Credit: Amanda Blum

Take a daily lap around the garden (I try to do mine before the sun gets too high in the sky). Each morning, I do a circuit with my garden hod and a bucket. Take note of how things are doing and what needs more water or perhaps a fertilizer boost, and look for infestations. If you see a weed, pick it and chuck it into the bucket (spoiler: You'll see many weeds). If something needs to be harvested, add it to the hod. Top up your water features and bee stations and try to spend a few moments appreciating all the hard work over some raspberries or the last of the snap peas. 

Water, water everywhere

The headline for this month is bringing in irrigation, since it’s likely the first time this year you'll really need it on a consistent basis. As temperatures climb, it’s imperative to have consistent water at the root of your plants. If you do this, they will grow resiliently, forming strong roots and stems that won't need babying under shade.

Test your irrigation or watering systems if you haven’t yet and get them turned on. Check in for the first week or two and make sure the ground is getting moist about six inches under the topsoil, and adjust the water as necessary. It’s never too late to mulch to conserve water and protect plant roots. Remember that you want a nice thick layer of mulch—an inch isn’t going to do much—but make sure to keep that mulch away from the stems of your plants. 

Deadhead to create stronger and more prolific blooms

Sweet peas forming pods
Sweet peas forming pods, ready to be retired so something else can be planted. Credit: Amanda Blum

Most of the summer blooming flowers are “cut and come again” blooms.  Your snapdragons benefit from a good chop; they'll branch and grow two blossoms in the same place. If you stay on top of your sweet peas, you might be able to stretch them into late July, but if they start to set pods, don't be afraid to pull them out to make room for another climbing vegetable or flower. You should be seeing the start of your echinecea, dahlia and daisies at this point of summer, so be sure to stay on top of deadheading so they last into fall. Some flowers, like sunflowers, are single bloom (they bloom only once, on one stem, so one chop and it’s over), so be sure you know which of your flowers are single bloom so you don't cut away the only bloom you'll get.  

Delphiniums should not be deadheaded
Delphiniums are single bloomers and shouldn't be deadheaded. Credit: Amanda Blum

Turn over peas and other spring vegetables

yellowing peas
These yellowing peas are coming to the end of life, and should be pulled and replaced. Credit: Amanda Blum

At some point around now, your peas will start going yellow and crispy from the bottom up. This just means it’s time to turn over the space for summer—hopefully you have some climbing beans or something else to go into the space. I use mine to plant green beans and sugar pumpkins, which will climb up the trellis and hang from the arches. Your spinach, boy choy, and spring broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage have all also flowered by now, so those spaces are ready to turn over for summer or fall as well. Consider bolt resistant lettuce, tomatillos, beans, cucumbers, melon or squash in their place.

Pumpkins and green beans growing
Pumpkins and green beans growing Credit: Amanda Blum

Sometime this month, garlic is going to be ready to come out of the ground too. Wait for three or four brown leaves and then harvest with a hand spade (do not try to just pull them out of the ground). Your garlic needs to be dried in order for it to last until winter.  

If you got potatoes into the ground in spring, you can start harvesting them as soon as the plants begin to flower. Use a spade to turn over the earth and then use your hands to find all the baby potatoes. You can let really tiny seed potatoes fall back into the bed, which will help it perennialize. 

Succession plant flowers, lettuce, radish, scallions, beets, kohlrabi and other greens

Kohlrabi in the garden
Kohlrabi in the garden Credit: Amanda Blum

In the newly empty spaces, remember to keep succession planting going. Get seeds in routinely or plant starts from the nursery. If you go with seeds, you’ll need to work harder to keep them hydrated so they germinate once they’re in the ground. 

Harvest your berries

Raspberries in the garden
Raspberries in the garden Credit: Amanda Blum

It is berry season, so be sure you’re getting all of your berries harvested as they’re ready. Raspberries should be coming to an end, with blueberries in full swing. At some point this month, strawberries will be dunzo too, which means you can cut them back fully so they can focus on roots for next year instead of growing runners. (I run the lawnmower over them to accomplish this.)

It's also time for early fall planting

You should have your fall starts started by the end of July, if you’re growing from seed. These starts won’t go in for a month or two, which gives you enough time to get a tray of seeds going now.

These Are My Favorite Early Prime Day Deals on Robot Vacuums

1 July 2025 at 16:30

We may earn a commission from links on this page. Deal pricing and availability subject to change after time of publication.

Robot vacuums are incredibly useful, but tend to be expensive. Fortunately, I found some deep discounts leading up to Prime Day, coming up July 8-11 this year.

A budget robot goes on deeper discount

Yeedi, as a brand, tends to garner good ratings on Amazon and Reddit, and the C12 Pro Plus has two robot features I like: a vibrating mop pad, and a bagless dust container. It's usually a good buy at $499.99, and right now it's going for $299.97.

A Roborock under $300

Roborocks are consistently high performers when I test them. The Roborock Q7 M5+ is going to give you a self-emptying tower and 10,000Pa suction power—even at the normal price point of $429.99, that's impressive. This 35% off sale makes this Roborock well worth the (much smaller) investment.

This Dreame with premium features is half off

When I tested the Dreame L10S, I found that it felt premium, despite the mid-range price. In particular, I appreciated its high-performing vacuum—I was less hot on the mop, though. The L10S Pro Ultra is the next generation of that model, and ratings suggest that the mop is greatly improved. Normally $899.99, it's now almost half off.

A flagship robot vacuum on deep discount

The Dreame X40 Ultra actually is a premium model, which means you're getting a self-emptying tower, with a mop that cleans itself (it even auto dispenses detergent) and improved robot performance on both vacuuming and mopping. The app will also include some more flexible features around scheduling and obstacle avoidance. That usually comes at a premium price of $1499, but with the listed discount and a coupon available on the listing page, the price comes down to $949.99.

One of my favorite robot vacuums is $300 off

I think the Roborock Curv is, simply put, a fabulous robot vacuum and mop (here's my review). It has spectacular suction, mopping and vacuum power, and the tower is gorgeously designed. I recommend this model over and over again. It's well worth the full price of $1599.99, but on sale, I'd grab it.

This Is the Only Gardening App I Need

20 June 2025 at 16:30

While gardening is a great pastime to take up if you want to unplug from all of your devices and reconnect with the natural world, there are ironically a whole host of tech tools that can make you more successful at it, from calendars and spreadsheets to countless apps. But one of the latter, Seedtime, has become the only gardening app I use, replacing all of my other digital calendars, spreadsheets, and layout tools—and even some of my non-tech tools like notebooks and journals.

While Seedtime used to be simply one gardening app among many I used to manage my outdoor tasks, it has gained so much functionality over the years (for example, this week it debuted a new inventory management feature for your seeds and other garden inputs like fertilizer) that it has become an indispensable tool for planning and managing my garden. 

Project management for my garden

Screenshot from Seedtime
Adding new crops to the calendar is flexible. You can change standard seeding and planting times, or even add steps needed for this particular crop. Credit: Amanda Blum

Although I plant roughly the same things at roughly the same time each year, getting it all down on a calendar was never an easy task. For example, if I enter my entire seeding schedule on Google Calendar but later discovered I needed to push everything back a week because due to the weather, there’s no easy way to do so. 

Seedtime’s calendar solves for this. It is focused on what you want to grow: You input all the crops you want, detail whether you’ll be starting seeds inside or out, or planting a start, as well as whether it’s a one time planting like tomatoes or a routine planting like radishes. Seedtime crunches all that data and translates it into a calendar that will tell you when to start the seeds, when to transplant them outside, and when to harvest. The app will suggest when to start seeding, based on the last frost date in your zip code, or you can choose a start date manually. 

If you need to push back all or part of your planting, it’s easy to do so by clicking on a particular crop and changing the initial date; Seedtime takes care of the rest. The calendar is reusable year to year, so you don’t have to redo your work annually. Seedtime’s tool also allows you to easily track the yield of any particular crop—say, those radishes: You can track year to year which varieties are doing better than others (something I never remembered to do in earlier years, so I'd just end up planting the same varieties again, year after year). 

I’m bad about succession planting in summer, even though I know I need to be on top of it. Seedtime takes all the manual planning effort out of the equation, so I simply need to follow the calendar it presents. 

Auto-generated task lists

seedtime app, mobile
screenshots from the mobile app Credit: Amanda Blum

When you’re entering crops into the calendar, Seedtime translates every step of the process as a task, and places it into a straightforward to-do list, organized by date. While the calendar gives you an overview, the task list offers a simple way to see what you should be doing today and tomorrow, allowing you to stay focused. 

Setting up these tasks could be done manually, sure, but having the app do it for me is a real time saver, if only for the flexibility it gives me: If it rains or is too hot to plant, tasks are easily postponed in the app, and those changes are synced back to the calendar. 

You can add as many additional tasks as you need to, for either your overall garden or a single crop. There’s a robust filtering tool so you can choose to, say, see only seeding or planting tasks. If you’ve used common project management tools like Asana or Monday, Seedtime's tasks will feel familiar.

The app makes it easier to keep a journal

journaling in Seedtime
journaling in Seedtime Credit: Amanda Blum

I’m a huge proponent of journaling for your garden. I’ve talked about keeping a visual photo diary, as well as a place to keep notes throughout the year. The notes allow you remember small things that you notice in the moment in your garden, but will surely forget by wintertime, when you start to plan next year’s garden. For instance, my notes often remind me which trellises need work, or to not put eggplants in a particular spot next year, or that I need more flower bulbs to fill a hole in the garden. 

But journaling is only useful if you remember to do it. Seedtime has a simple journaling feature that allows you to quickly input notes and/or photos, making it a lot more seamless. Photos are incredibly useful for being able to see when certain crops were popping last year, so you can see if you’re on track this growing season. They can also show you how the garden changes over time. Having the app at my disposal provides an excellent way to organize my thoughts, and keep them all safe and in one place—I misplaced my gardening journal last year for a month, and it paralyzed me.  Having all this data stored in the cloud means that won't happen again.

Track your inventory

Inventory management in Seedtime
inventory management in Seedtime Credit: Amanda Blum

As you garden, you will acquire a collection of seeds, fertilizers, and other garden ephemera. Organizing these inputs is an ongoing process, and I thought I'd developed a pretty good system. Once a year, I’d audit my seeds, which allowed me to ensure they were still good (each type of seed has its own expiration date), and count what I had before I ordered more. But though this worked, it required me to start over from scratch each year, since planting depletes my stock.

Seedtime understands that, and so its inventory system allows you to enter all your seeds, but also note when they expire, how many you have, and where they came from. Seedtime links that information to the crop elsewhere in the app, so when you note that you have planted radishes, it depletes your inventory of radish seeds. You can also tie an item in inventory to tasks or a specific garden. 

It’s not only seeds: In Seedtime, you can store information about any garden input, from fertilizers, to pest treatments, to seeding or potting mixes. I was delighted when Seedtime reminded me to order more plant tags this year, because it was able to determine I was out long before I would've realized it.

A better garden layout planner

garden layout tool
garden layout tool in Seedtime Credit: Amanda Blum

The garden planner is the feature that might really sell you on Seedtime. If you struggle with planning out your garden beds, this app has it figured out. You start with an empty garden plan, and tell Seedtime what the dimensions of the garden are, then the dimensions each bed within your garden. 

Next, you pull crops from that list that you set up in the calendar, and drag them onto the garden layout. Each crop has a designated size requirement, which you set up in the crop section, but you can change it on the layout panel; Seedtime will sync up the data in both panels. 

You can quickly move things around and understand precisely how much room you have for additional crops, see what crops you still need to find room for, or check your progress at a glance as you’re planting. The layers tool will help you plan for succession planting and seasonal planting, too—you can see where you’d replace crops and designate when you’ll replace them, and with what.

Plan your garden on desktop or mobile

One of the best aspects of Seedtime is that I can access it on mobile and desktop. For repetitive tasks like entering inventory, or tasks where a mouse is useful, like creating a garden layout, the desktop app is invaluable. But the notifications and handiness of having everything on my phone while in the garden is necessary. Not a lot of apps offer both options. 

The app is free, but you can pay for more functionality if you need it

Seedtime has a few pricing tiers, including one that is completely free. Even on the free plan, you'll have access to calendaring, tasks, and journals, with limited data attached to each item. For $7 a month, you can store additional data, so you can add crop categories, custom tasks, and perennial crops. At that tier, you get access to the layout tool and journal. For $9 a month, you get access to the inventory tool. 

The app has recently added AI features that will suggest crops that will do well in your growing zone, suggest companion plants for what's already in your garden, or offer succession planting dates. AI tool access is based on credits, so free accounts get 10 credits, the $7 tier gets 100, and the $9 tier gets unlimited credits per month.

Seedtime is available on desktop, iOS, and Android.

How to Create a Perfectly Laid-Out Garden

13 June 2025 at 12:00

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There isn't one ideal way to lay out your garden. Gardeners can opt for a chaos garden, where everything grows wildly together, or a companion-planted garden, where many different kinds of vegetables and flowers intersperse. Some people, though, want a perfectly laid out, symmetrical garden, with straight lines of vegetables spaced perfectly in rows. For those people, here are two ways to achieve that.  

Seeding using a seed square

Planting from seed is the most efficient way to grow many vegetables, like radishes, beets, kohlrabi and turnips, but seeds are hard to space perfectly. Enter a seed square. A plastic grid with holes perfectly spaced in a variety of patterns, the square is placed in your garden bed, and you push seeds into the holes in the pattern you wish to achieve. These should correspond to the recommended spacing on the seed packet, but most of the vegetables I just named have the same recommended spacing: two to three inches between seeds. Make sure you place two to three seeds in each hole, in hopes that at least one germinates. You can always trim back the seedlings to one later. 

Seeding square
A seeding square. Credit: Amazon

Seed squares aren’t expensive, but you can make your own using a piece of cardboard. Draw a grid on a one foot by one foot piece of cardboard. Use a hole punch or awl to make holes in symmetrical patterns on the cardboard. You can paint the square to help you easily note the patterns while out in the garden planting. 

If you are gardening by the foot, you can use the seed square to plant multiple different vegetables in each square foot of space in your garden. By laying them out with the seed square, even different vegetables will grow in a structured pattern.

You don’t have to repeat the same pattern throughout a garden bed, either. You can dedicate a portion of the whole bed to pattern seeding, or mix up the pattern from square foot to square foot.

Planting in a grid using seedlings

Corn planted on a grid
Corn planted on the grid, perfectly spaced. Credit: Amanda Blum

If you’re buying starts or growing your own, it’s easier to keep your plants in a tight grid. All you have to do is plonk the starts in the soil where you want them— you can see the pattern as you plant. With seedlings, a seed square won’t help— the holes aren't big enough—so it’s best to use a tool like a piece of PVC or a yardstick to lay out where plants will go. Use the PVC or yardstick to draw lines in the topsoil to divide the garden bed into a grid. 

layout sketch for garden spacing
A layout sketch for garden spacing. Credit: Amanda Blum

As with the seed square, you can sketch the layout ahead of time, but generally, you want to keep blocks of rows—a block for each vegetable. The blocks don’t have to all have the same spacing, or even go in the same direction. By maintaining the grid, your garden will still look clean and professional when everything grows in.  

Why I Buy Bare Root Plants Instead of Pretty Flowering Plants

11 June 2025 at 14:00

Your local garden center can be full of inspiration with its aisles and aisles of abundant, flowering plants in the prime of their lives. It certainly makes sense that when purchasing a plant, you'd gravitate toward one full of blooms and, possibly, fruit. However, bare root plants are actually a better way to go.

What are bare root plants? 

Plenty of plants can either be cut back each year and still grow, or die back naturally. The roots, however, are where all the energy for the plant are stored. Bare root plants lack much in the way of branches—instead, they tend to be just the root ball out of soil. In the case of bare root trees, they are usually quite young and are little more than a stick with some roots attached. Rosebushes, for example, are commonly sold in their bare root state in late winter through spring and are little more than the crown, with the roots attached and the rose branches cut down to a few inches height. 

Once you’ve planted the rosebushes, they quickly sprout new green branches and leaves and can become big quite quickly. Bare root trees can produce fruit within the first season, and bare root flowers like dahlias can produce flowers in the first year.

bare root plant in packaging
this is how bare root plants arrive Credit: Amanda Blum

Bare root plants are cheaper

So long as you take care to plant them correctly, bare root plants can be a fantastic way to fill out a large space inexpensively. Because bare root plants are lighter and smaller (there’s no soil or moisture to account for), they’re also easier to ship, and are, therefore, less expensive. Bare root trees can be bought in bulk for a small fraction of what you pay per tree in a nursery: Bare root chestnut trees, bought in bulk, can be had for a few dollars, whereas in a nursery, a potted and leafed out chestnut would start at $29, depending on size. 

Bare root roses can usually be had for $4 to $10 a piece, while a potted rose would cost three or four times as much. This is true of bare root flowers and shrubs, as well. In fact, most nurseries receive their stock as bare root, and plant them on site—that’s how they make their markup.

It’s easier to plant bare root, and they acclimate better

The common approach when planting almost anything is that you want a hole three times the depth and width of your root ball. When you take a plant out of a pot from a nursery, that “root ball” includes all the soil, so it’s bigger, even though the roots aren’t any larger. Planting bare root, for that reason, usually means a smaller hole, which is less work. 

Planting a bare root plant doesn’t require more care, either. It’s wise to saturate the roots before planting, and you should add fertilizer to the water you drench the roots in. However, once it’s time to plant, you simply dig a big enough hole, plant to the appropriate depth, cover to the appropriate level, and walk away. 

Bare root plants also acclimate better to their environment, and the roots are therefore stronger. When you transplant, the plant undergoes stress, and every branch, leaf, flower, and fruit is another resource-draining dependent. By planting bare root, you’re allowing the plant to focus on root health and grow out when it has the resources to do so. 

Bare root plants are easy to examine when they arrive, so rotten, moldy, or desiccated roots can easily be cut away, and any infestations are easy to catch. It’s a way of ensuring only the healthiest plants go in the ground. 

Where to find bare root plants

The first place you should look for bare root trees is your state nursery, and every state has one. Your state nursery likely has saplings or bare root trees native to your state at a low cost. Other good sources include Fedco Seeds and Stark Bro's, which have deep catalogs to choose from.

The Best Heat-Resistant Vegetables to Grow in Your Summer Garden

29 May 2025 at 15:00

This summer is predicted to be another scorcher, with record breaking temperatures across the U.S. beginning in June. While traditional summer crops do require heat, which is why we wait for summer to grow them, extreme heat waves or heat domes are a different thing altogether.

Plants have a series of behaviors they'll display when under heat pressure. They can wilt, which is what it sounds like, due to water stress. Leaves will droop, and the solution isn't necessarily more water, but letting the plant ride out the wave with some shade, if you can provide it. Plants may bolt, which is when they stop growing leaves or fruit and instead, thinking they are at the end of their life, send up a flower, which will quickly go to seed. Once this flower is present, which the plant focuses all its energy on, the fruit and leaves will become bitter. Unfortunately, there's nothing you can do to "solve" bolting, except pull the plant and start over.

And heat isn't the only threat: Fruit and leaves can also experience sun scald, which is basically a sunburn. You can see these spots on your tomatoes and pumpkins, which appear white, rather than red like they would on human skin. In most cases, plants will survive sunburn, but it puts the plant under additional stress and makes it more susceptible to other garden threats like disease.

The best solution is to choose plants that will tolerate heat spikes, and then provide some support to your plants by watering evenly, giving shade when you can in the afternoon sun, and not planting, transplanting, or fertilizing during these spikes, all of which are stressful for plants.

Greens that will survive a heat spike

While there are bolt-resistant lettuces you can grow, a true heat dome is simply too much stress, and most lettuce will go to seed. For heat-resistant greens, consider kale, which is hardy in both extreme cold and heat. Collards, known for the greens they produce, are also going to survive a heat wave without wilting, which is why they're popular across the south. The crop you might not have heard of yet is malabar spinach. While traditional spinach is a spring and shoulder season crop and won't do well even in an average summer, malabar (which is not actually related to real spinach) is a vining plant from India that tastes remarkably similar and has become popular for its resilience.

Okra and corn are at home in the heat

Considering crops that have been popular in geographies that experience more heat than we're used to is a good strategy for finding vegetables that'll survive extreme temperatures. Okra is from Ethiopia, so heat resistance is part of the plant's DNA. Okra sometimes gets a bad rap for becoming slimy in recipes, but I urge you to consider growing it. There are two varieties of okra: I recommend only planting the spineless variety. The "spines" are spikes that can make touching and harvesting okra painful.

corn growing
Credit: Amanda Blum

Corn may be a resource hog in your garden, requiring a lot of additional nitrogen to be productive, but it is also highly tolerant. Corn can survive in over 110 degree temperatures and still produce crops reliably, so long as those temperature spikes aren't extended. A true summer crop, corn needs 70 degree weather to grow, which is why you wait until June to plant corn seed.

Vining plants like luffa, tepary beans, and yardlong beans

To be fair, most people don't eat luffa (though you can); they know it instead as loofah, a sponge-like material used in "natural" scrubbing. But truly, luffa is a form of vining squash, which will grow prolifically, adores the sun, and thrives in prolonged heat. When the fruit is allowed to dry on the vine, the flesh can be stripped off, leaving behind the luffa, which looks precisely like loofah you purchase, and can be used immediately.

There are plenty of pole beans (beans that climb, as opposed to bush beans, which do not) that originated in hot climates and will do well in a heat wave. Tepary beans, for instance: These beans are native to the Southwest U.S. and Mexico, and will spend the summer climbing and producing pods. Harvest them in the fall before the rain starts, and store them as dry beans.

Yardlong beans are closer to a green bean. Still a vining bean, they can produce beans that are well over a foot long, as their name suggests. These summer stars prefer less water, and they will thrive anywhere they have support, like a trellis.

Soybeans need the heat

While not a vining bean, but a bush bean, soybeans are an easy crop to grow if you've got enough heat. These sun-tolerant plants will produce a limited amount of pods per plant, so they need to be grown in groups, but they require almost no support except watering. Harvest the pods and eat the beans steamed fresh, as you would in your favorite Japanese restaurant, or dry them to make soy milk or tofu.

Squash and melons love the heat

There are two kinds of squash: summer and winter. Summer squash includes crops like zucchini, yellow squash, and pumpkins. Winter squash includes crops like acorn squash, butternut, spaghetti, and others. Both kinds of squash are traditionally grown in summer, and both are surprisingly resilient in heat. While you might experience sunburn on some fruit, squash is famous for providing shade due to the large leaves, and they will not only take care of most fruit, shielding it, but will also protect nearby plants by shading them, as well.

So long as you keep your melons apart from your cucumbers and squash so they don't cross pollinate, your vining melons are likely to survive a heat wave with the same caveats as squash: Look for fruit that is exposed and cover it from sunburn, but the plant will mostly take care of that on its own.

Sweet potatoes are built for high temps

Originally from Polynesia, sweet potatoes are an excellent crop for beginning gardeners. They're easy to cultivate seedlings (called slips) from any sweet potato you bring home from the store. Once planted, they produce prolific above-ground vines that are showy with flowers, while below ground the potatoes grow over 120 days. These plants not only tolerate but thrive in heat.

How (and Why) I Use Smart Cameras to Monitor My Garden

27 May 2025 at 15:00

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While most people think of smart cameras as just a part of their security system, they’re also a good way to monitor the things growing in your yard. In most cases, the cameras you already have set up for security can be doing double duty as a tool to keep track of what's happening in your garden.

I believe we’re on the cusp of smart cameras becoming a much bigger part of the gardening experience. For the last few years, smart bird houses have exploded in popularity. One of those companies, Bird Buddy, has launched an entirely new line of cameras specifically for micro-viewing experiences in the garden. Their Petal cameras, expected to be available next year, should be positioned closer to the ground than most security cameras, and are meant to capture bees, insects, and butterflies, as well as the growth of your plants. Using AI (as a subscription service), the camera will allow you to assign names to your plants and even communicate with them. Still, there is a lot you can do with security cameras already on the market. 

Remote monitoring

Winter shot from EufyCam
Credit: Amanda Blum

In an ideal world, you could pack up for vacation and your yard would take care of itself—but a smart camera can allow you to remotely keep an eye on what’s happening and monitor for any damage. What’s impressive to me is how well my solar-powered cameras maintain their connection, even during low temperatures and freezing rain. 

Close up of plants via security cam
I've been impressed at how much detail I can get from small plants through my cameras. Credit: Amanda Blum

Cameras allow you to keep an active watch on your yard. Not only will your security camera let you know if your trusted waterer drops by while you're gone as promised, but you can actually see how your plants are doing and if additional help is needed.  I’m always impressed at how good the zoom is on the cameras I use around my yard; I can actually tell if a tomato is ripe or if broccoli is ready to be picked. 

Last year, when I couldn’t get outside because of a sprained ankle and had someone helping in the garden, being able to see what they were doing and communicate with them via my security camera was invaluable. It’s much more effective than trying to describe what you need or want. 

Catch pests

Garden pests are frustrating for a wealth of reasons. To start with, you often don’t know what kind of pest you’re dealing with, and it’s nearly impossible to catch them in the act. Smart cameras are perfect for this, because they give you fly-on-the-wall ability to passively watch. Motion detection does most of the work for you. 

My security camera let me know I had raccoons in my yard last winter. They weren’t doing any damage (yet), but it helped influence how I design my garden and chicken coops. The cameras identified the cat that had chosen my garden to use as a litter box, checking in each night around 1 a.m. I’ve been chasing down a rat for the last two weeks, and the cameras do a spectacular job of catching his activity, which tells me where to add traps and what I may be doing that is enabling him. 

Other uses for smart cameras in your yard

Chickens in the coop
Credit: Amanda Blum

The most invaluable service I’ve gotten from my cameras are how I use them to monitor backyard pets. I could not figure out how my newly adopted doberman was escaping from the yard, so I installed security cameras, and discovered she was climbing a five-foot tall chain link fence. I’ve got three cameras installed in my chicken coop, and they tell me when there are eggs to be grabbed, if a chicken is becoming broody, if everyone got into the coop at night, and if that pesky rat has cracked into the chicken food. When I first got my chickens, I couldn’t figure out which bird was laying which color egg, but the cameras helped. And now that I have a beehive, being able to see the activity going in and out of the hive is a helpful to monitor the health of the hive, and if a rodent of any kind tries to get in, I’ll know immediately. 

How to choose a camera for your yard

I’ve tried smart cameras from almost every major brand, and I’ve figured out some things. First, in almost all cases, I want a PTZ (point, tilt, zoom) camera. These allow you to use your phone as a remote control and move the camera around, often almost 360 degrees, to zoom in on what you want. This is far superior to a fixed range camera. It’s simply annoying to have something going on just outside of the range of your camera and not be able to do anything to adjust it remotely. 

Additionally, I look for an app that makes it easy to watch clips. While I think Reolink cameras are affordable and functional, their app forces you to watch a horizontal clip on a vertical screen, so details are incredibly small. The Ring app has a lot of bloat, bringing neighborhood alert notifications to your phone. I enjoy the Aqara, Switchbot, and Eufy apps for getting to the video quickly and easily. 

Lastly, as you add cameras to your collection, being able to remain free from subscription costs is a real bonus. For that reason, I have largely switched over to Eufy cameras, which—if connected to a Home Base—don’t need a subscription. 

What I use in my yard:

I replaced all my floodlights with this camera for overhead views
Eufy Wired Floodlight Cam
$199.99 at Amazon Amazon Prime
$219.99 Save $20.00
Eufy E340
$199.99 at Amazon Amazon Prime
$219.99 Save $20.00
I place these wireless cams anyplace I want a 360 view of what's happening in my yard.
Eufy Solar Powered Wireless Camera
$259.99 at Amazon
$349.99 Save $90.00
eufy Security SoloCam E30, 2-Cam Kit, Security Cameras Wireless Outdoor, Solar Camera Outdoor Wireless, 360° Pan, AI Tracking, 2K Clarity, No Monthly Fee
$259.99 at Amazon
$349.99 Save $90.00
I have this epoxied into three spots in my chicken coop.
Eufy Indoor PTZ Camera
$34.88 at Amazon Amazon Prime
eufy Security Indoor Cam C220, Home Security Cameras, 2K Resolution Security Camera with 360° Pan and Tilt, Plug-in Security Indoor Camera with 2.4G Wi-Fi, Human/Motion AI, Night Vision, AI Tracking
$34.88 at Amazon Amazon Prime
Just added this to monitor my beehive.
Eufycam S3 Pro
$439.99 at Amazon Amazon Prime
$549.99 Save $110.00
eufy Security eufyCam S3 Pro 2-Cam Kit, Solar Camera Outdoor Wireless, MaxColor Night Vision, 4K Security Camera with Solar Panel, Face Recognition AI, Expandable Local Storage, No Monthly Fee
$439.99 at Amazon Amazon Prime
$549.99 Save $110.00
All my cameras sync to the homebase so I don't need a subscription.
Eufy HomeBase
$149.99 at Amazon Amazon Prime
eufy Security HomeBase S380 (HomeBase 3),eufy Edge Security Center, Local Expandable Storage up to 16TB, eufy Security Product Compatibility, Advanced Encryption,2.4 GHz Wi-Fi, No Monthly Fee
$149.99 at Amazon Amazon Prime

Where to place your camera

Reolink mounted on outdoor post
Credit: Amanda Blum

All security cameras are either hardwired or wireless. You might already have exterior floodlights on your home, and wired security cameras can use those connections, replacing the lights (many units come with floodlights). In this case, your connection is likely high up, and can’t be moved easily. So long as it’s high up, you likely have a good field of vision of your yard, but make sure to consider plants that grow in the summer, and if they’ll block your view. 

If you don’t have these connections available and don’t want to pay an electrician to create them, you need wireless cameras. But I actually prefer my wireless cameras. 

First, the solar power on most of them is astounding. I live in the Pacific Northwest, a place with seven months of gloom, and my cameras always stay powered. Second, being wireless means you can move your camera around to find the perfect spot. Usually all you need is to screw the base into the spot you want the camera. Don’t be afraid to try different spots, when I was chasing down how my dog escaped, I had to keep moving the camera. I attached the camera to a 2x4, and moved the wood around the yard, leaning it against whatever was near until I found the right range of vision. 

Everything I'm Seeding in May

8 May 2025 at 15:30

While a lot of May gardening is dedicated to moving plants into the ground, there is still plenty of seeding to be done. Inside, I'm starting late-planted vegetables like cucumbers, and a second round of annual flowers, like stock and celosia. Outside, I'm beginning to direct seed vegetables like corn and beans, and annuals like sunflowers. It's important to remember to stay on top of your succession planting during this busy time. And finally, there's no better time to start, reseed, or overseed your eco lawn.

Lawns

Clover lawn
A clover lawn before being cut Credit: Amanda Blum

Take advantage of the last of the rains to help germinate your eco lawn or clover lawn. You don't have to convert your whole yard, either, if you're anxious about it. Carve out a smaller area to seed with clover to try it. Ideally, you’re not creating a monoculture of one kind of seed, so other low lying flowers can be added in like yarrow, English daisy, and multiple types of clover. I add traditional clover for winter coverage, and red and strawberry clover for the summer to get pops of color.

Annual flowers

In most parts of the U.S., you’ll start to get enough sunshine this month to direct seed outside, which just means you’ll plant the seeds in the soil, rather than try to grow seedlings inside to plant outside later. If you’re going to try to direct-seed annuals like wildflowers, they can start going in the ground as soon as you’ve reasonably passed the risk of frost. Pay attention to the packet for instructions as to the depth of seeds—many seeds cannot germinate by simply being sprinkled on top of the soil; they need cover of soil. Your sunflower seeds, for instance, need a depth of an inch or so. A good basic rule is that seeds need to be planted as deep as their size. So tiny seeds like celosia are ok to be sowed on the surface, but marigolds and zinnia must be planted about half an inch deep. If you want to scatter the seeds to get a more natural look rather than poke holes for the seeds, scratch up an area so there’s soil contact for the seeds, then scatter them and cover them by sprinkling soil on top and patting it down. Finish by watering. 

A row of sunflowers
I plant a row of sunflowers on the edge of my garden every year. Credit: Amanda Blum

Remember that summer is finite, so if you haven’t planted annual flower starts and you want to direct seed, you’ll want to do so before the end of May—although you may succession-seed another round of flowers later this summer, like zinnias or sunflowers. Consider ideas like a flower wall, or a row of sunflowers at the edge of the property or garden to define the area.

Direct sown vegetables

While some people direct sow vegetables like tomatoes and peppers outside, for most of the U.S., the summer is simply too short to do so and get a reasonable yield of fruit. This is why people buy vegetable starts at the nursery. Some vegetables, though, are fast-growing and prefer not to have their roots disturbed, so seeding them in the garden is a fine idea, and now is the time to do so.

There's almost no reason to start beans inside; they grow quickly and have shallow roots, so they are best seeded outside. Remember that beans are either bush type or vine type, and both need support, but vining beans can grow ten to twelve feet tall: Strong support will be needed, as beans can easily pull a trellis down.

Cucumbers on a frame trellis
Cucumbers on a frame trellis Credit: Amanda Blum

Cucumbers are ideal to start outside, particularly cucamelons (Mexican sour gherkins, which have become quite popular the last few years). They germinate within a few weeks and prefer not to have their roots disturbed. You can succession plant your cucumbers, so put another round of seeds in the ground in a few weeks. Cucumbers can crawl on the dirt, but you'll get better use of space and cleaner cucumbers if you use a trellis designed for them.

Pumpkin on a trellis
when pumpkins are grown on trellises, you make slings for them to add support Credit: Amanda Blum

Pumpkins and squash are fine to seed in the dirt. Pumpkins benefit from a hilling process. A popular way to do this is to dump a bucket or two of compost into a pile, creating a hill, and then place two or three pumpkin seeds in each hill. If these are giant pumpkins, you'll thin the seedlings to one, but for regular size pumpkins, you can have two seedlings. I've also had tremendous success growing pie pumpkins or mini pumpkins on an arch, so the pumpkins hang down. I'll be doing that again this summer with black and white pumpkins.

Most squash will germinate quickly, and while you can pick up summer squash and zucchini starts, you have plenty of time to grow from seed in most climates. Give it a try this summer.

Corn growing in blocks
Corn should be grown in blocks for better pollination. Credit: Amanda Blum

Corn should always be direct seeded. It is easy to germinate, and it grows fast. Make sure you're planting corn in blocks of four by four feet, so there's enough corn to pollinate itself. Corn grows tassels, which are pollinated by the wind, so unless you have a big enough block of corn stalks, you won't get corn. Don't try to grow a short row or a few plants; you need a substantial block of plants.

Melons are similar to squash and cucumbers and can be direct sown outside—but remember that melons and those cucurbits can cross pollinate, so don't plant them close together or you'll end up with Franken-squash, a common garden occurrence.

Succession seeding

Be sure to take advantage of the last spring rain to germinate additional rounds of carrots. Since they need constant moisture during germination, the rain can carry the load here. This time of year, I leave the radish, lettuce, green onion, beet, and kohlrabi seeds outside in a protected spot so I’ll remember to seed them once a week. You don’t need to put out a packet’s worth each week, just the number that you’ll eat. It helps to mark rows as you go so you don’t plant in a spot you’ve already seeded. 

lettuce grown in troughs
lettuce grown in troughs Credit: Amanda Blum

My favorite tip for having a summers’ worth of lettuce is to direct seed a long, low trough planter of lettuce, but you can just pick a corner of a planting bed. Dump the whole packet of seeds in and be sure to mix it with the top layer of soil so it’s distributed evenly. Water the area and as the seeds germinate, you'll have a planter packed with lettuce. But if it's too packed, it won’t grow much, so each week, I grab a scoop from the end of the planter, separate those seedlings, and plant them out in the garden beds. The planter acts as a holding space for lettuce most of the summer, and each week I pluck out a few to plant. 

Seeding inside

There are still seedlings I grow inside this time of year, despite the abundant sunshine because growing inside means less exposure to predators like squirrels, birds, and rabbits, and I can control the atmosphere. If it's a particularly bad year for slugs, for instance, I may choose to grow cucumbers inside as starts. Sometimes I grow them in both locations so I can sub a start in if a cucumber plant gets eaten.

I also grow a second round of flowers inside, like stock and celosia. These are delicate seeds that benefit from a lot of attention, so I find growing them inside in a controlled environment is easier. Then I can place the grown starts precisely where I want them.

All the Gardening Tasks I’m Tackling in May

7 May 2025 at 12:30

There is no place more joyous than a garden center in May. The shelves are full of annuals, vegetables, and perennials ready to go home with you. Gardeners everywhere are waiting with bated breath, trying to find the perfect day to get plants in the ground. Pops of color are emerging as tulips, irises, peonies, and lilacs fill yards.

What you do this month will determine how successful your summer garden is, so strap into your overalls, grab your sunhat and spade, and get outside. Let's install a summer garden. I'll go over the maintenance tasks you should tackle first, then get into the details on what you should plant and how to do it.

Perform a few garden maintenance tasks first

Your watering systems may have taken a hit during winter, so it's vital to check each line before you turn on irrigation for the summer. Often, I've found that I am the problem, having nicked lines while weeding or digging around in spring.

Ensure that the controller is working by standing outside, testing each zone and walking around to check each end point. You can usually hear a leak, so keep an ear out for loud gushing or hissing while also scanning visually.

If you use a hose bib setup, check that as well. We've had a hot spell early on the west coast, meaning my irrigation went on earlier than ever this year. (For plants growing in full sun, water in the morning and aim for 1 to 2 inches of water per week.)

irrigation line repair
Credit: Amanda Blum

Your established beds can benefit from a layer of compost, which will act as a general fertilizer, as well as create volume back in your beds if they’ve experienced erosion during the winter. Follow the compost with a layer of mulch. Spending this time spreading the compost and mulch will give you the opportunity to size up each part of your garden, so take notes as you go for which areas need weeding, are experiencing pests, or have plants that look like they might not have survived the winter. 

Shrubs, trees, and vines

A number of shrubs go through blooming cycles in spring, like lilac and forsythia. Once they’ve bloomed, you can prune them back, and in some cases, like lilac, this may trigger a second bloom later in the season. In either case, it will take one fall task off your list and keep the garden looking tidier. 

lilac bush
Lilac in bloom. Credit: Amanda Blum

This is a good time to plant new woody shrubs and trees—the weather is mild and the ground should be soft from the rains. For your existing trees, make sure you feed them with a fertilizer that is appropriate for them this month. Your garden center can help identify which fertilizer is best for the trees you have. Each of these trees will be creating shoots this month, and you should prune them back as necessary to maintain the shape of the tree and to keep fruit to an amount the tree can reasonably support.

Ensure you are only using clean pruners or loppers—carry diluted bleach or Lysol with you in a spray bottle while outside. Cleaning your tools in between plants ensures that you do not transmit virus, fungus or disease between plants.

Clematis climbing wall
Clematis plant climbing the wall. Credit: Amanda Blum

Finally, climbing perennial vines like clematis, roses, and honeysuckle should be coming out of their slumber at this point, and you’ll want to ensure you’re supporting them by tying them loosely to their trellises as they climb. 

Annual flowers

Annual flowers
Annuals at the nursery. Credit: Amanda Blum

It is finally time to put some annuals in the ground, which provide pops of color and can last all summer if you treat them right.

Garden centers should be full of annuals at this point of the year, including petunias, lobelia, marigolds, and begonias. Annuals are a bit more tender than perennials, so you want to wait until you are past the risk of freezing to plant. Annuals can fill an area with color in the space and time between perennials blooming, and are ideal for window boxes and planters, where it might be hard for annuals to survive the winter.

Most hanging baskets have annuals for the same reason—they’re too exposed for perennials or anything else to survive winter. Make sure that the beds you're planting into have a slow release fertilizer like Osmacote in them, and that they will get regularly watered.

Perennial flowers

Most people will have tulips in bloom or just completed at this point—remember not to cut them down after bloom. Tulips need their leaves in order to come back next year, so let them compost in place. Once the foliage has yellowed, it’s OK to divide or move the bulbs. Once the tulip has bloomed, it’s a great time for a bulb fertilizer, so they’ll be strong next year. You can also plant summer bulbs like dahlias and cannas now, if the risk of frost is gone.

irises in bloom
You can divide irises now. Credit: Amanda Blum

If you didn’t get new perennials planted in April, you can still do so now, or divide the perennials you have. The ground should be very workable now, and you may be noticing which plants are ready to be divided as you move about the garden. If you’d like them to bloom this summer, you’ll want to get this task done in May. As you plant, ensure you’re using slow release fertilizer in the ground where you plant. 

This time of year, be vigilant in checking your garden center, grocer, and anywhere else that has a "sad plant shelf" (SPS). Stores will discount these plants that don't look especially happy at 50% off or more, and because they're perennials, that's a deal. Plant them as you would any other, and while they might not come back this year, they will next year. Delphiniums and agastache are my favorite SPS finds.

Your roses need a spring fertilizer and might need some shaping at this point or help attaching to the trellis. Look for signs of stress or pests and ensure you’re treating them with appropriate treatments. Your garden center can help. 

Vegetables

Onto the main event! Gardeners across the country wait for the precise moment to put their tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants into the ground, and sometime this month, that day will arrive. Here on the west coast, it's usually Mother's Day, but what you're actually waiting for is steady overnight temps over 50 degrees.

If in doubt, join a local gardening group, because this will be the main topic of conversation this time of year. That means it's time to begin hardening off vegetables like tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants as appropriate.

asparagus growing in the garden
Credit: Amanda Blum

Perennial vegetables like asparagus and artichokes should be active now. Remember to harvest asparagus daily, taking only spears that are larger than your pinky. Once spears become thinner, it’s time to leave the plant alone for next year. Watch your artichoke plants for ants or aphid infestations, which may be sprayed off, but will return without further treatment like neem oil or nearby trap flowers like nasturtiums. Both asparagus beds and artichokes will benefit from a spring fertilizer. 

Nasturtiums growing
Nasturtiums are excellent trap plants. Credit: Amanda Blum

By mid to late May, almost all regions should be planting their warm weather crops. Tomatoes, eggplants, and peppers, but also beans, corn, cucumbers, and everything else. Your beans and corn can be direct seeded, as can melon, pumpkin, and both winter and summer squash, but using starts will give you a leg up for the summer.

If you planted potatoes in the spring, it’s likely time to hill up earth around the sprouts. 

Strawberry plants
Strawberry plants that need to be thinned. Credit: Amanda Blum

Thin out your strawberry beds of runners and give your strawberry beds a dusting of fertilizer. Strawberry plants can either focus their energy on producing these runners or on fruit, but aren’t very good at doing both. Each spring the beds must be thinned to create better and larger fruit. You can give away the runners or plant them elsewhere.

Pest control

Reduce snail and slug populations by putting out traps and going on regular evening hunts. Doing this now, as the rains cease, will greatly reduce problems later this summer. Hang pheromone traps in your fruit trees now, which will control pests this summer and protect your fruit. 

Seven Strategies for Making the Most Out of Your Small Garden

18 April 2025 at 12:00

As the prices on groceries continue to rise, many people might be thinking of growing a vegetable garden for the first time. It can be a great idea, not just because groceries are expensive, but because getting to the store includes soft costs like gas, grocery bags, and time—to say nothing of how wildly empowering it can be to simply walk into your backyard and collect the food you grew yourself.

The key to your success here is maximizing the space you have, because gardening has soft costs, too. The fertilizer, water, and of course, your time. You’ve got a limited amount of space to work with, as well, so choosing the right crops to get the maximum amount of food is essential. 

Maximize the space by growing up and down

kohlrabi in the garden
Kohlrabi grows above ground, but look at all the space left to grow radishes, turnips, and carrots around the kohrabi in the same space. Credit: Amanda Blum

You might look at a raised bed and see a simple 4-by-8-foot space, but I see all the vertical space. Beneath the tomatoes lies space for radishes, turnips, and carrots. Peas, beans, and cucumbers grow straight up if supported by a trellis, using almost no square footage of the bed itself. If tomatoes are allowed to sprawl across the bed, they take up a lot of space, but pruned and trellised appropriately, they’ll grow up, leaving room for crops around them. Almost all squash can be trellised to grow upwards. 

"Cut and come again" crops make the best use of space

butter lettuce
Credit: Amanda Blum

Grow lettuce, celery, chard, and kale because these crops allow you to take leaves or stalks from them without killing the plant—they'll simply grow back. Eventually, the plant will go to seed (it will send up a shoot that will flower, and then that flower will produce seeds, and this process will turn the vegetable bitter), these crops take little time to grow, so they can be quickly replaced. 

Avoid crops that take up a lot of space for little return

Cabbage in the garden
Credit: Amanda Blum

I only grow cabbage in wintertime—during the summer, I can’t spare the space. Each cabbage plant needs 3 square feet or more, and only produces one head of cabbage, which is cheap to buy at the market. The same is true for broccoli and cauliflower. A single zucchini plant will take over an entire bed, and while it will produce an endless amount of zucchini, it’s usually too much hassle. Corn doesn’t seem like it would require much space, but you need to grow it in blocks of 4 feet by 4 feet in order for it to pollinate. Corn is also such a heavy nitrogen feeder that it will rob all your nearby vegetables of the nitrogen they need to grow. 

Grow mini vegetables instead of full-size ones

Tons of baby bell peppers
Credit: Amanda Blum

I recently wrote about growing mini bell peppers instead of full size, since each full-size plant may produce only a few bell peppers, but a mini pepper plant may produce 50. The same is true of eggplants and tomatoes. Planting one cherry or plum tomato plant (I recommend Juliet) will give you a summers-worth of tomatoes to play with rather than waiting for a few full-size tomatoes to ripen. Small eggplants will also ripen over the season, giving you produce to harvest more often. 

Choose crops that are easy to grow

peas growing
Credit: Amanda Blum

Some crops are more finicky than others. It’s hard to screw up lettuce, radishes, or peas, but a lot of things can go wrong before you successfully grow a watermelon or artichoke. Carrots are very hard to germinate, but beets grow for everyone.

Choose vegetables that grow quickly

Cucumbers are fast crops and can even be grown in bags
Cucumbers are fast crops and can even be grown in bags Credit: Amanda Blum

Some vegetables are short crops, meaning they grow quickly, and some are long crops, taking five or six months. Brussels sprouts and parsnips, for instance, take six months to grow, but turnips can be harvested in 60 days. Lettuce, radishes, beets, scallions, spinach, chard, cucumber, green beans, and peas are all examples of short crops. The back of any seed packet (or the plant label on starts) will tell you how long any crop will take to harvest.

Stagger your planting

Gardens are not a “set it and forget it” project. You need to be constantly inputting (planting) and outputting (harvesting). To keep a small space consistently going, you’ll want to utilize succession planting. Instead of planting peas once, plant them every two weeks so there's always something to harvest. The same is true with almost every crop mentioned above: lettuce, scallions, radishes, beets, turnips, etc. Plant some in week one, and then again in week three, five, and seven. As you pull out older plants, newer plants are already growing. If a plant is struggling, pull it out and try something else—you don’t have the space to let anything linger.

How to Choose the Right Tomato for Your Garden

16 April 2025 at 14:00

If you grow vegetables in the summer, you probably grow tomatoes, and they’re often the first vegetable a budding gardener tries to grow. It's not a bad call—there’s nothing like eating a vine-ripened tomato you grew yourself.

But not all tomatoes are created equally, and it can be confusing to decide which tomatoes to grow. There are countless varieties, and instead of choosing based on the color or a cute name, learning the characteristics of different tomato types can help ensure a more successful tomato growing (and tomato eating) season. Whether you are growing tomatoes from seeds or buying seedlings at the nursery, here's what to consider to help you choose the right tomato for you. 

Determinate versus indeterminate tomatoes

An indeterminate slicer growing
An indeterminate slicer growing Credit: Amanda Blum

Before you get into flavor, color, or anything else, you should know about the two types of tomatoes. All tomatoes are either determinate or indeterminate, and at the most basic level, the difference is about harvesting: Determinate tomatoes produce all their fruit in a few weeks' time, while indeterminate tomatoes produce over the course of a season. This seems like a simple choice, because who wouldn’t want a season full of tomatoes? And if you’re harvesting, say, slicing tomatoes for sandwiches, a season full of tomatoes would make sense. But if you’re harvesting paste tomatoes to make sauce, you more likely to want them all at once, so you can make a few big batches of sauce. 

These two kinds of tomatoes grow differently, too: Determinate tomatoes tend to be bushier, and grow to a set point and then stop. Indeterminate tomatoes grow taller like a vine, and never stop growing and setting flowers. You can prune indeterminate tomatoes to shape the plant, but should never prune determinate tomatoes, or you’ll limit the fruit you’re capable of growing.  

Every plant tag or catalog listing will tell you if a tomato is determinate or indeterminate, but ife in doubt, do some research. You can search for the name of a tomato online to find out, or ask someone at the nursery. 

Tomato type determines shape, size, and juiciness

Every kind of tomato
Slicers and paste tomatoes of ever shape Credit: Amanda Blum

It takes nothing more than a trip to the grocery store to see the varieties of tomatoes on offer. There are cherry tomatoes (which aren’t just little baby tomatoes), paste or plum tomatoes, and globe tomatoes. Occasionally you’ll even see slicers. Each of these tomato types serves a specific purpose.

Slicers are best for sandwiches

Slicing tomatoes
Slicing tomatoes in different colors Credit: Amanda Blum

When you picture the ideal tomato, you’re likely imagining a slicing tomato. Palm sized or bigger, slicers can top a pound in weight, and come in a few different shapes. There are heirloom type tomatoes like Purple Cherokee or Berkeley Tie Dye, which have big, defined lobes and shoulders. There are globe tomatoes, which are what you usually buy in the supermarket—tennis ball sized, and very round and smooth. There are heart shaped tomatoes, like Cuoer di Bue and Oxheart, that have a distinct point at one end and tall shoulders, which makes them resemble hearts.

The thing that truly defines a slicer, though, is that they have a good amount of juiciness—more so than other tomatoes—but also enough meat for slices of tomato to hold together. This makes them ideal for sandwiches or a beautiful caprese salad. 

Paste or plum tomatoes make great sauce

Paste tomatoes
Paste tomatoes going into the oven to roast Credit: Amanda Blum

While you could make tomato sauce from any tomato, the best tomato sauce tomato is a paste or plum. These elongated tomatoes tend to have more meat and less juiciness, making them ideal for cooking and canning. The shape makes them easy to peel and ideal for roasting. Classic paste tomatoes include Roma (a determinate) and San Marzano (an indeterminate), both of which have spectacular flavor. You can also consider varieties like Amish Paste, an indeterminate popular for its size and production, if not so much its taste. Growing multiple varieties (say, one great-tasting tomato and one well-producing tomato) and using both will yield more sauce, while maintaining the flavor. 

Cherry tomatoes are for snacking and salads

Cherry tomatoes
Cherry tomatoes of all shapes and colors Credit: Amanda Blum

Usually the size of a gum-ball, cherry tomatoes are popular at salad bars and make perfect snacks. it’s important to note cherry tomatoes are not baby tomatoes, but full grown and matured tomatoes that are meant to be that size. There are a few subtypes of cherries. While most are spherical, there are also pear shaped cherry tomatoes, the most famous of which is the Yellow Bell. There are also grape tomatoes, which are actually a small paste tomato, like Juliet, which is wildly prolific and a great compromise; they make fantastic sauce and are great for snacking.

Tomato color really does influence taste

A caprese of slicer tomatoes
A caprese of slicer tomatoes Credit: Amanda Blum

One of the most delightful aspects of growing tomatoes is the range of colors you can achieve. Each year I grow a literal rainbow of cherry tomatoes, but the colors aren’t simply for looks. Tomato colors are created by pigment, and those pigmentation elements influence the amount of sugar and acid present in the fruit. Red and pink tomatoes, which have higher chlorophyll and lycopene levels, have higher acid levels than yellow and orange tomatoes, making them more tart. Blue, brown, and purple tomatoes have higher anthocyanin levels, which result in a more savory taste. Green Grape cherry tomatoes are a bit peppery, due to a lack of lycopene. 

Cherry tomatoes are a fantastic way to experiment with colors and tastes. Once you find out what what you like, you can try out slicers in those colors. But even among paste tomatoes, which are traditionally red, there have been some been amazing developments in recent years, resulting in yellow paste tomatoes like Sunrise Sauce, which I grow myself—this variety can produce a less acidic sauce or soup if the too much acid in tomatoes tends to overwhelm you. 

Know the tomato rules, but don't be afraid to break them

While all tomatoes are somewhat interchangeable—you can make a sauce out of cherry tomatoes or use a paste tomato on a sandwich—you’ll notice a big difference when you use the right tomato for the right job. There is absolutely nothing like slicing a fresh-off-the-vine Yellow Brandywine tomato and slicing it up for a BLT. My canned whole tomatoes, grown as San Marzanos in my yard, taste better than any can of tomatoes from the market, and while you can snack on any tomato, the sweetness of a cherry tomato makes them the top tier choice.

Understanding the type, color, and growing habit of different tomatoes can help you choose the right tomatoes for your home garden and make shopping for seeds or starts a more informed process. Here's to a tomato-filled summer!

Five Common Mistakes Beginners Make When Growing Seeds (and How to Fix Them)

19 March 2025 at 12:30

Growing seeds is a relatively simple process: Bury seeds in dirt, add water, heat, and light from the sun, and in most cases, something is going to sprout. The problem is, most of us conduct this process inside, because we’re trying to get a jump on the growing season. Inside, where there’s no sun, heat is hard to control, and the most your seedlings can stretch out their new little root legs is the size of the plastic cell they’re planted in. As such, it takes some practice to grow strong, resilient seedlings, and beginners make plenty of mistakes. The good news is, most of them are solvable. 

Not enough light

Lights over seedlings
This is how close lights should be to seedlings that haven't germinated yet or just have. Credit: Amanda Blum

This is one of the easiest problems to diagnose, because it is also one of the most likely problems. Remember, when growing seeds inside, you have to try to replicate the sun. When people estimate how much light they need to reproduce the sun, they almost always underestimate. The tell is easy: Your seedlings will be “leggy" with long stems that aren’t strong enough to support the leaves of the plant. The stem is often curved, almost like the plant has scoliosis. The seedlings may bend towards the light, too. 

The solution is, of course, to add more light. I find too often people starting out seeding for the first time buy one growing lamp to arc over their entire shelf of seedlings, when each tray needs 2000-5000 lumens (that's a lot of lumens). It’s not just how strong the light is but also how long they’re on: Seedlings need 14-16 hours a day of sunlight. Those lights need to be much closer to your seedlings than you think, too. Six to eight inches above your seedlings is the right distance. 

If your seedlings are already too leggy, you can try a few things. First, if they’re tomatoes or peppers, you’ll be able to bury the stem deep into the soil when you pot up the seedling or plant it outside, and this will solve many problems. If it’s another kind of seedling, like cucumber, they don’t usually require the same strong stems, and will likely correct themself over time. It will help to run a fan in the room and run your hands over the seedlings a few times a day. Both will encourage the stems to strengthen. 

Too much light

Seedings under lights
You can see how close the lights are to most seedlings, and how much light is applied. Credit: Amanda Blum

With most plant diagnosis, it can be frustrating to hear, “it may be too much or too little.” This isn’t true with light. It’s really easy to tell if there’s not enough, as above, or too much. Like us, plants can get sunburned. They develop scorch marks with the leaves at the top bearing almost white or golden splotches. The splotches don’t have a pattern to them, either.

Now, seedlings are susceptible to a lot of diseases, fungus, and virus, so you may find yourself concerned with knowing whether this is sunburn or something else. The good news is, it doesn’t matter because the solution is the same: Cut it off. The sunburned leaves can’t absorb light or nutrients and can’t recover, so cut them off entirely, and let the rest of the plant recover. Obviously, move the lights farther away, but don’t overcorrect. While seedlings can get closer to traditional lightbulbs, my experience is they burn easier with LEDs, so while traditional tube lights can be within inches of my seedlings with no issue, I keep LED lights six inches or more away. 

No germination

Of all the seeds you plant, some just aren’t going to germinate. There are a lot of reasons for that, but let's cover the most likely causes. First, you may have buried the seed too deep or not deep enough. On the back of each seed package are directions for how deep to plant seeds—and it’s not a loose recommendation. While the difference between a seed planted an inch deep or one and a half inches deep might not matter, there’s a huge difference between seeds that need to be lightly covered—like carrots and most flowers—and those that get buried, like tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, and sunflowers. Another tell is this: The bigger the seed, the deeper you bury it. Zinnia seeds barely get covered, but pea seeds need a depth of an inch or so, and large bean seeds need to be buried deep in the soil. 

This is, unfortunately, one of those problems you need to solve ahead of time. If a seed has been sitting in wet soil for too long, and it hasn’t germinated, it has likely gone rotten. You’d just need to start over; by the time you’ve figured out a seed isn’t germinating, it’s likely only a few weeks since you planted, so you haven’t lost too much time. 

Another reason might be that the seeds are simply expired. Every kind of seed has an expiration date. It can be very short, like alliums (onions), which are good for a year. Experienced gardeners will know that these are merely guidelines; you can always test your seeds by trying to germinate them to see if they’re still OK. 

The seed mat you’re using to heat up your seeds could also be too hot, cooking your seeds. You want the seeds and soil to remain between 70-80°F, but no more. Once your seeds are cooked, they’re goners, so start over with fresh seeds. 

Too much water

You can over-love your plants. Too much water, even if your plant survives, discourages your seedlings from growing strong root systems. Under-watering is always the better solution, so long as the plants have enough to survive, since it causes the roots to reach out in search of more resources, forming stronger root systems. Watering methods for seedlings that allow them to only uptake as much water as they need are the most ideal, such as bottom watering, which leaves a little water in the tray for the soil to wick up. But even if you water from the top, you want soil that is lightly moist, but never soaking wet. 

Yellowing leaves or mushy plants are usually a sign of overwatering. If the plants start to smell bad, mold is likely developing in the water, which is another sign there’s too much water. In those cases, the solution is to go the other way and use less water. Your plants may or may not recover. If you trim away any root rot or squishy leaves and stems, it may recover. 

However, most seedlings will develop some green or white fungus on top of the soil, and that is not necessarily a bad sign. It just happens, and it won’t affect your seedling in any way. 

Not enough water

tomatoes as seedlings and ready to go in the ground
If seedlings grow with the right amount of light, the stems will be strong enough to support a taller plant, even in a small pot. Strong root systems will develop with the right amount of water. Credit: Amanda Blum

Droopy seedlings usually need water. Tomatoes, in particular, will start leaning over and will quite literally look sad. This can happen toward the end of the watering cycle, and if not left to fester, it's not a problem, but it's a sign that you should water them. You should see plants immediately perk up, within an hour or two of watering. 

If your soil block is really dry, that’s never a good sign. You want your soil to always be lightly moist, not dry. If you’re having trouble keeping your soil moist, you should consider bottom watering, as mentioned above, because it is a consistent method. The soil takes up what it needs.

The Seven Vegetables You Should Always Grow From Seeds (and Why)

17 March 2025 at 19:00

It's so tempting to buy starts—I get it. It feels great to look out over the garden, and finally see something in the beds, bringing color back to the landscape. But before you buy, you should seriously consider growing the following vegetables from seed. It might mean waiting a little longer for your crops, but your yields will likely be better. 

Carrots

Carrot seeds are small and cheap. You can pick up a pack of seeds at the grocery for a few dollars and it will yield far more carrots than a few six-packs of carrot starts. That’s $14 for starts vs. $3 for a packet of seeds. Not to mention: When you buy carrot starts, each cell holds a ton of individual carrot seedlings. You can’t simply plunk a whole cell of starts into the ground. You have to carefully separate them, and then plant each seedling in the ground, with space around it. It takes forever.

If you grow from seed, you simply draw a line in the dirt using a yard tool, sprinkle seeds down the line, and lightly cover with dirt. Water, or let the rain do the work for you. You’ll have to thin the seeds, sure, but it's a much easier endeavor. 

Beets and radishes

Beets and radishes both suffer from the same crowded-seedling problem as carrots, but there are two additional reasons to seed these yourself.

First, beet and radish seeds are a lot bigger and easier to handle than carrots. So it's quite easy to ensure you’re planting one beet or radish every few inches, and neither has to be buried deep—you can push a seed into the ground with your finger. This means you won’t have to thin them later, and both beets and radishes germinate easily.

Second, you don’t want 50 radishes or beets to be ready for harvest at the same time—as every seedling from a six-pack will be. You want 10 or 15. By planting several seeds weekly, you’ll have radishes or beets that are ready for harvest week after week.

Corn

Corn has insufferably shallow roots and is annoying tall. When you transplant corn, it inevitably does not develop strong enough roots to hold itself upright, and will need some additional support. Which is silly, because corn is a huge seed, and has incredibly high germination rates. Even better, you plant it late in the season, so you’re unlikely to miss the timing.

Plus, most nurseries only carry standard sweet yellow corn. With seeds you get access to more interesting varieties like Glass Gem or popping corn.

Beans

Beans, like corn, don’t develop very deep roots, and those roots need to support either a big bushy plant or a tall, climbing vine. It’s almost always better to plant from seed for that reason, so the seed has the opportunity to genuinely root itself in place.

Like corn, you can access so many wild and wonderful bean seeds, while your nursery will offer a much smaller variety. In fact, you can try growing almost any bean you buy in the store and really like. Some bean purveyors like Rancho Gordo encourage it, allowing you to sign up to test-grow their beans. For a shipping fee, they’ll send you seed beans every year.

Cucumbers

For years I purchased cucumber starts, to get a jump on the season. And then my cucumbers did nothing for the first few weeks, which was always disappointing. Meanwhile, I noticed that the cucumbers that naturally grew from whatever seeds were left from last year grew prolifically. This is because cucumbers hate their roots being disturbed. When you transplant them, they go into shock for a few weeks, and stall. They’ll recover, but in those few weeks, you could have grown the starts from seed. 

Lettuce

If you want to eat lettuce all summer long, you want to be planting it all summer long. With lettuce seeds being as abundant and cheap as they are, it’s far more efficient to grow them yourself. Lettuce is easy to germinate, and sprinkling in some seeds every week starting in spring just makes sense. Let the rain do the hard work. Lettuce is great to grow in blocks in your garden, or grow it between other plants.

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